DIY bee hive: types and drawings

Criteria for selecting ready-made houses

When buying a ready-made bee house or if you want to make it yourself, you must first decide on the model.

When choosing a suitable design, you need to take into account the following criteria:

• climate and weather conditions in the region: if spring and summer are cold with characteristic frosts, you need insulated, double-walled hives, they can be left to winter outside;
• possibilities for honey collection in the area: for abundant honey collections, double-hulled and multi-hulled beds are suitable, for meager honey collections - small, single-hulled ones;
• type of apiary: for a stationary one, heavy beds and double-hulled houses are suitable, for a transportable one - light, compact, multi-hulled, made of polystyrene foam;
• planned methods: if you need to create another family with a new queen, you need a lounger;
• apiary size: for a large farm, hives are ideal, from which honey can be quickly pumped out, for example, double-hulled ones;
• experience in beekeeping: it will be easier for beginners to start with a simple bed design.

To find out what types of hives are successful in your area, you can consult with experienced beekeepers and observe their work.

So, you have decided to build a bee hive. Where to begin?

Before building a hive, you need to find out all the possible issues that you may encounter during the construction process. It is very important to choose the right material, study the design of a beehive and familiarize yourself with all the popular hive designs. First, let's figure out what kinds of hives there are?

The most common types of hives

Vertical structures - the structure of a beehive of this type is a multi-hull house, where the frames are increased by adding them on top. Mobile and lightweight option. The Dadan hive belongs to this type. Horizontal hives - the area is increased by adding frames horizontally, i.e. parallel to the ground. Quite bulky and difficult to look at. A variety of such a hive is the Ukrainian lounger.

Gallery: types of hives for bees (25 photos)

​Selection of material

• Tree . The best option because it is closest to natural conditions. The most suitable species are cedar, linden and aspen, since they have a pleasant smell and the wood is drier. If you want to save a little, you can choose pine, fir or spruce. But keep in mind that these rocks are less comfortable for bees as they retain moisture. The advantage is that you don’t have to heavily insulate such a house.
• Plywood . Quite a good option due to the environmental friendliness and long-term service life of the material. Additional costs will be required for insulation with polystyrene foam and coating with paint. Be prepared that plywood is afraid of moisture.
• Expanded polystyrene . Most modern hives are built from it, because they are attracted by its low cost and savings on insulation, which is not required. There are also significant disadvantages - fragility, brittleness and deterioration in the quality and quantity of honey.
• Styrofoam . One of the cheapest options, because even material left over from purchased household appliances will do. The pros and cons of its use are similar to those of expanded polystyrene. Another drawback is destruction under the influence of direct sunlight.
• Polyurethane . It retains heat very well and is resistant to rotting, mold and decomposition, since it does not allow moisture to pass through or accumulate inside. Mice, birds and the bees themselves are unlikely to risk chewing through a house made of this material. Bactericidal. The main disadvantage is high flammability and ventilation.

Making a drinking bowl for bees

Beehive lounger - what is the difference and how to make it yourself

Bee hive structure

The structure of the hive is quite simple. The design includes a body that accommodates honeycomb frames, a bottom, a lid and a magazine extension. The case is essentially a box consisting of walls. You can choose the dimensions of such a box only based on your own preferences and convenience. In one of the walls, namely the front, there is a hole in the form of a slot - the so-called tap hole, which for convenience can be equipped with a valve. A board for arrival is installed just below.

A store extension is a not so obligatory attribute of a bee hive; it serves to store honey during its collection, and also as a home for weaker colonies that produce little honey. It looks like a shortened body. The lid is most often flat, protecting the bees from bad weather, bright sunlight and insects, including parasites. If desired, you can equip it with an undercover, which is similar in functionality to a magazine extension. The roof liner is also a kind of insulation and a place where you can install a feeder.

The bottom of the beehive can be either removable or nailed. The first option is the most convenient, since the beekeeper will be more comfortable monitoring the bees and, if necessary, providing any assistance. The advantage of a fixed bottom is that, thanks to its design, the protruding edges provide an additional landing platform.

Types of bee hives and their characteristics

Dadanovsky . The most common, simple, light and spacious. It is made of wood and can consist of twelve or more frames. If the bee family grows, you can add frames and cases to it. Made from spruce, linden or aspen. A woodworking machine, environmentally friendly glue, paint and tools - everything that will be useful to you during construction.

• First, prepare the wooden boards by running them through the machine. To connect the walls of the street, it is necessary to make grooves in the boards.
• Using a cutter, channels measuring five by ten millimeters are cut in the middle. Planks measuring eighteen by four millimeters are prepared.
• Connect the boards into a shield by gluing the cut grooves and strips. You should get four panels for the walls and one for the bottom.
• Assemble the panels into a box using nails and glue. Apply paint intended for use on wood and let dry.
• A board one and a half centimeters thick is suitable for making a roof. It is necessary to cover it with a water-repellent coating and drill several small holes for ventilation.

Alpine . France is rightfully considered the birthplace of this hive. Roger Delon practically recreated the natural living conditions of bees in a multi-hull house. The design of this hive is similar to a hollow, which is their habitat under normal conditions. Very compact, without unnecessary partitions, cracks, except for the entrance at the bottom, the structure. Air circulation occurs naturally: fresh air enters with the bees from below through the entrance, rises to the top, warming up at the same time, and comes out again from below. The roof is not removable.

How to make a boa hive with your own hands

Ruta . Suitable for those who live in warm southern regions, since constant rearrangement of housings causes excessive cooling of the beehive. The design itself consists of six buildings, each of which has ten frames. Each new building is added gradually, after the bee colony has mastered the previous habitat.

Cassette . Since the incidence of bees, unfortunately, is growing, many beekeepers began to prefer cassette hives. The main difference between a cassette hive is its thinner walls, not painted with any paint, but covered with wax, which protects the bees from diseases. In such conditions, they themselves maintain the microclimate they need and, due to the most natural coating, feel more comfortable.

Ukrainian sun lounger . The best option is if you are a beginner beekeeper. The simplest design that does not require special care and extra costs. The standard capacity of such a house is about twenty frames. It withstands wintering well thanks to its thick walls.

Farrar's Hive . Multi-hull house for bees, which was designed by an American beekeeper. It consists of four cases, which are designed for frames measuring fourteen and a half centimeters. In such hives, colonies develop better, since this design is lighter, more convenient and the frames will not stretch in hot weather due to the large weight of the honey. One of the advantages is also the ease of inspecting the frame and collecting honey.

Hive Boa Constrictor . It consists of a combined bottom and several bodies mounted on a compressed socket. Lightweight, compact design of eleven buildings, which does not require insulation with the help of additional walls and liners. Thanks to the light weight of this type, both women and those who do not have much strength due to health reasons will be able to engage in beekeeping.

Horned hive . This type of home for bees was created by beekeeper Mikhail Polevoda. One of the most inexpensive options that will not hit your budget if you decide to start beekeeping. Moreover, the design of this hive is quite simple and is suitable for those who do not have large areas on their site.

Little tricks that may be useful to you

• Grooves must be cut into the walls of the case for installation and convenient rolling out of the frames.
• To make it easier to move the housings, you need to make handles on the walls - this will greatly facilitate the process of moving the hive.
• Remember to protect your bees from mites. To do this, just install a galvanized mesh.
• If the winters in your area are too cold, then take care of a heater. Its power should not exceed ten watts.
• The hive must have a feeder made of nomadic mesh.
• It is very important to leave minimal gaps between the planks. Because bees can store propolis in them or build honeycombs, which is not very convenient.
• The roof of the house is built at the very end, making sure it is of sufficient weight.
• Dry the boards thoroughly before working with them! Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation of the hive; over time, the frames will no longer fit into their usual place. It is advisable to choose boards without knots, since after a certain time they may simply fall out.
• The glue is selected to be as environmentally friendly, moisture-repellent and highly durable as possible.

Lectures on beekeeping by Vladimir Georgievich Kashkovsky

The hive is built, which means it’s time to choose the honey-bearing workers themselves!

One of the first questions of a novice beekeeper is undoubtedly the problem of acquiring bees. The answer is quite simple - from more experienced beekeepers. The main thing is that his apiary is no less than twenty kilometers from yours, because with a shorter distance there is a chance that the purchased bees will simply return. You can also buy bees at a beekeeping station in your region, a public apiary or a state reception center, because here specialists will help you and the likelihood of buying old and sick colonies is reduced.

The best time to purchase them is spring or early summer , when they actively reproduce. By purchasing bees in the spring, you get the advantage that already this year they will be able to bring you the first harvest and stock up on food for the winter.

Pay special attention to the choice of breed, which should be as adapted as possible to the weather conditions of your region. For longer and colder winters, Carpathian and Central Russian breeds . If you want to get linden honey, then choose the second option. Carpathian bees, let’s say, specialize in meadow grasses.

How do bees winter?

Be sure to read the sanitary and veterinary passport and the document indicating the well-being of this region in terms of bee health. When inspecting the family you are purchasing, make sure there is a queen. If you don’t find it yourself, then brood of different ages will be a sign of its existence. In order to avoid doubts about her health, you can invite a more experienced beekeeper with you to the selection process.

A healthy and productive queen is indicated by the continuous sowing of eggs over the entire area of ​​the comb, the absence of large gaps and unfilled cells. Broods of different ages should not be located next to each other. A barren queen will also show itself by the presence of drone brood and polypores. Pay attention to the age of the uterus - because the older she is, the fewer eggs she will lay. In general, one bee colony maintains about eight frames in the spring, fourteen to fifteen in the first half of summer, and about ten in the autumn.

If you do not have a lot of starting capital, then a bee package may be the ideal option for you. It consists of four or six frames. A package of four frames must contain at least one and a half kilograms of bees, a young and healthy uterus, and the permissible death limit is no more than twenty bees. The two outer frames must contain food weighing at least three kilograms of honey, the two inner frames must be completely filled with brood.

The bees brought to their apiary are carefully placed in their new home; they are not disturbed for the first 24 hours, allowing them to get used to it and calm down.

Requirements for a homemade hive

Experienced beekeepers recommend taking into account the following rules when building a homemade house:

• the building material must be durable and impervious to moisture in order to protect insects from bad weather conditions;
• you need insulation that will keep you warm inside in winter and comfortable cool in summer;
• It is desirable to have not one, but several entrances, which can be closed and opened according to the weather;
• there must be enough space in the hive for the movement of bees, for brood and honey;
• the design should be convenient for the beekeeper so that he can easily collect honey, clean the house and take care of the family; an opening lid and/or a removable bottom will be needed.

What material is best to make bee hives from?

Initially, wood was used for hives. Without going into details, let's say: he was chosen by the inhabitants of the amazing bee community themselves. Keeps warm perfectly.

It is easy to process. Breathing. Durable. Practical. Available for sanitization. In modern conditions, it has mobility, disassembly, and interchangeability of components.

Innovators are desperately fashionable. Innovators dream of using construction fiberboard, chipboard, etc. to make beehives for bees.

I would like to immediately warn beginners. No matter how attractive and colorful the displayed samples may look, do not give in to temptation.

They contain toxic volatile substances that negatively affect our bees. Chase aesthetics and simplicity - you will lose your apiary!

A separate question is about new polyurethane foam products. Everything flows over the years, everything changes. Such bee hives have their adherents.

Polyurethane foam hives

The industry accepted them into production. The unsurpassed advantage of such hives is their extraordinary weightlessness, plus the ability to miraculously retain heat in the hive.

Yes, these are the huge advantages for which beekeepers love them. Only deformation repels. Hit - a dent, or even a sink! When handling at work, extreme caution is required.

The most famous designs

Main types of hives

On the Internet you can find many schemes for making a beehive with your own hands. When choosing the most suitable scheme, pay attention to the type of structure. Among the existing ones, the following are considered the most common and convenient:

• Horizontal. They are also called sun loungers. They look like a horizontal box, the length of which can vary depending on the number of frames. Its peculiarity is that the nest and the store are located next door.
• Vertical, also called risers. The box has a vertical arrangement, the design consists of several tiers. Its size is increased by adding new housings or magazines on top (as opposed to horizontal, in which additions are made from the side).

Important! The division of types also depends on the size of the frames. They can be narrow and high, low and wide or equilateral.

Dadanovsky hive

One of the popular designs that is installed in many apiaries. It received its love because of its ease of use and spaciousness. It can be made with your own hands from wood, and it consists of 12 frames, which can be supplemented as desired. In the summer and after increasing the family, the hive can be enlarged with the help of additional buildings.

Alpine

A multi-body hive built in the likeness of a hollow. It has gained great popularity due to its similarity to the natural living conditions of wild bees. This structure is ideal for places with limited space. It has no partitions or holes for ventilation. Fresh air enters the hive through the entrance.

This dwelling is suitable for honey plants in warm regions, since due to regular rearrangements of buildings, the thermal effect inside the dwelling is disrupted. Ruta contains 6 cases of 10 frames each.

Cassette

These hives have become popular due to the emergence of new bee diseases. This design has thin partitions, and therefore the swarm creates a microclimate for itself.

Important! Constructed from natural material, impregnated with wax.

Ukrainian lounger

An ideal solution for inexperienced beekeepers. You can quickly make it yourself. They consist of 20 frames and insulated side walls, so the honey plants survive the winter cold well. The Ukrainian sun lounger is easy to maintain.

Multi-body beehive, non-rebated

The hive is thin-walled, wall thickness 20 mm. Suitable for regions with warm climates. The house has a lot of advantages - the buildings are light, easy to build with your own hands, and very practical.

Main types of hives with drawings

You can make a hive of different shapes and sizes with your own hands. We will consider the most popular options among beekeepers separately.

Hive Dadan

Found in almost all apiaries. It is made of wood - cedar, spruce, pine, linden or aspen. As follows:

Its obvious advantages are simplicity, spaciousness and modularity. The classic model consists of 12 frames, but as the bee colony grows, it can be supplemented with new buildings or stores. Here is a drawing of a classic Dadan hive with 12 frames:

The roof can be made not flat, but 1- or 2-slope, so that raindrops roll off the roof surface better.

Alpine hive

According to the principle of construction, the structure resembles a hollow, since when developing it, beekeeper Roger Delon tried to recreate conditions for bees that were as close as possible to natural ones.

Externally, the Alpine hive is a multi-body vertical “pyramid”, since the nesting boxes in it are located one above the other. Because of this, the design is compact, but has a large height, and also includes the following features:

• there are no partitions, ventilation gaps or grilles in the buildings;
• a taphole is installed in the lower part of the house, through which natural air circulation is carried out and moisture accumulation is prevented, as well as condensation deposition;
• a feeder or ceiling is made in the upper part of the hive to create an air cushion;
• all cases, except the bottom one, do not have a bottom, so to install the frames, combs or slats are attached to the walls;
• each compartment of the general body contains from 3 to 8 frames, depending on the number of individuals in the bee colony.

There is no need to insulate the walls of the hive, since in winter it is simply covered with a plastic bag.

Langstroth-Ruth Hive

The vertical type structure is made in several floors of 10 frames and takes up a minimum of space. Experienced beekeepers create hives of this type up to 7-8 floors and with their help they collect more than 200 kg of honey in combs per season. Beginners can use a minimal version - with one body and a semi-magazine, since a large magazine attachment will significantly increase the overall volume of the structure and make it difficult to insulate the nest.

Here is a diagram of a multi-body hive:

If individual blocks of the structure are equipped with pins, a more reliable structure can be obtained.

Cassette hive

Unlike other models, in such a hive the nesting bodies are made in the form of drawers, which are installed in a common body with bars fixed on its sides - runners, on which the cassettes will run. The distance between the frames in the housing must be at least 10 mm in order, if necessary, to isolate part of the hive from the main space with horizontal bars or plywood partitions.

On each retractable body of such a hive, entrances are made, the central ones have a diameter of 25-30 mm, and the slot ones have a length of 200 mm and a height of 10 mm. If you plan to make a common door, then the holes for the entrances should be made in it, opposite the gaps between the cassettes. An arrival rail is attached under each entrance. The entire structure is protected by a pitched roof, under which there are ventilation holes.

A cassette multi-body hive with 10 frames can be assembled according to the following scheme, where 1 is a single body, 2 are cassettes, 3 are frames, 4 is a dividing panel, 5 is a layer of insulation, 6 are protective covers, 7 are sub-cassette sections:

A cassette hive requires more effort and materials to manufacture, but it is more convenient to transport than others, so it is the best option for outdoor apiaries.

Beehive lounger

Unlike the above models, this hive is horizontal and is perfect for housing several bee colonies. This design is a box divided by stationary partitions into several parts, each of which houses a separate family of bees with its own queen.

The hive can be additionally equipped with a magazine, installing it on top of the nesting compartments or between them. For each of the sections, a taphole is prepared in the lower part of the front wall. It is better to make the roof gable to protect the structure from precipitation and overheating in extreme heat.

The bed can also be made for one bee colony. Here is a drawing of such a primitive design:

Medicinal properties

Bee house is used for treatment in alternative and standard medicine. This method is called "Sleeping on the hives." The effect is achieved in three ways:

1. Healing air.
2. Microvibration.
3. Action of the biofield.

Bee air contains propolis and flower nectar. Inhaling this mixture cleanses the respiratory tract. Helps with bronchitis, cough, acute respiratory infections.

Bee hive heals

1. Cardiovascular diseases.
2. Infertility.
3. Diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.

Helps with post-operative rehabilitation, as well as metabolic disorders in the body.

The use of bee therapy is prohibited if

1. Alcohol was consumed.
2. For allergic reactions to pollen and honey.
3. Taking any medicine.
4. The disease is in the acute stage.

Before starting the treatment procedure, it is recommended to wear a special headdress, this will prevent bees from getting into your hair. The use of perfume is not allowed.

The benefits of honey have been known since ancient times. Recently, bee honey has been actively used to treat cancer. Cancer is a malignant tumor that kills healthy cells in the body and weakens the immune system. Treatment with honey restores old cells and enhances the work of new cells.

In addition to honey, bees are also used in treatment. When moving, these insects create vibration and positively influence the human biofield. This method of treatment strengthens the immune system, invigorates and gives strength.

Buy or make it yourself?

Residents of Russia who dream of beekeeping always face a difficult question. Where to start - buy ready-made hives or make them yourself? There is no clear answer. Decide on a solution to the problem.

Calculate the economic costs. If the goal is intra-family consumption, treating beloved relatives, then the purchase of tools, machines, lumber will cost a pretty penny and will significantly increase unjustified expenses.

Of course, we must not forget the time spent making bee hives with our own hands. Time also costs money.

If carpentry has already been established, there are certain capacities, think about it. You will need high-quality drawings of bee hives. Fitting requires the highest degree of craftsmanship.

That is why the vast majority tries to purchase factory-made hives. They undergo appropriate certification and are unified. Payback is quick. Quality is put at the forefront.

Materials for making hives

Initially, beekeepers collected honey from wild bees in the hollows of forest trees. Then someone came up with the idea of ​​making log decks and installing them near their home. Modern Hive is a simplified and, more importantly, lightweight version of the deck. Therefore, wood is considered the best material for making beehives. Bees feel very comfortable in wooden houses.

Do-it-yourself electric drive manufacturing technology for a honey extractor

Linden is considered the best type of wood for making hives. It absorbs less moisture and contains virtually no wood resins.

However, the thermal insulation properties of this tree are low and hives made from linden must be additionally insulated for the winter. In addition, linden boards are more expensive than other, more common types of wood.

Hives made of pine and spruce are much cheaper and retain heat better. But the pine smell and ability to absorb moisture make hives made from these types of wood not comfortable enough. The main advantages of houses made of pine and spruce are low cost and good ability to retain heat.

What material is best to make hives from?

Since ancient times, wooden beehives have been installed in the apiary. For their manufacture, natural soft wood of linden, poplar, willow, spruce or cedar was used. Today, polystyrene foam and polyvinyl chloride hives are found on sale. They have many advantages over wooden models - lightness, ease of transportation and assembly. But the main advantage of a wooden house is its naturalness and environmental safety.

To make a bee house, buy high-quality cut soft wood. The boards used for construction are processed and sanded. Their surface should be smooth, without chips or knots. Knots that are well fused with the surface are allowed on parts with a width of at least 65 mm. The walls, bottom and roof of the hive are made from boards of various sizes. Only one rule applies to them - high quality wood (no rotten or rotten places, no mold or rotten knots).

Recommendation: before making an apiary, inspect the boards, treat them, and dry them well.

https://youtu.be/vR2zMg7EWSo

Plywood

An easy-to-process and durable material for bee houses, which, however, does not withstand moisture, and therefore its outer surface must be primed and painted. To retain heat, the inner surface of the plywood hive is covered with polystyrene foam. Plywood structures are strong and lightweight, but require annual maintenance to ensure protection from moisture.

Expanded polystyrene and foam plastic

These materials have become quite widely used for the manufacture of hives in recent years. They are easy to process, and therefore making a hive from them is much easier than from any other material.

Constructions made of polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene are very light, dry and warm. Bees feel quite comfortable in such houses. The low cost of materials makes them accessible to most beekeepers.

The disadvantages include low strength and fragility of the structure, which requires very careful handling. In addition, polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene are susceptible to exposure to ultraviolet rays and are destroyed over time. Therefore, to protect from solar radiation, hives made of these materials must be painted.

Polyurethane

Another modern material that does not rot, is moisture resistant, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, is easy to process, retains heat well and has a low specific gravity. Polyurethane is not damaged by mice, birds and insects. Hives made from it are light and comfortable. Disadvantages include its flammability, inability to pass air and high cost.

Video about making hives from different materials

Requirements for hive design

The main requirements for the design of bee hives are that they must provide a dry, well-ventilated and warm environment for the bees. When developing your own design that differs from standard options, you should take into account some features. As practical experience shows, design dimensions should include the following:

• the width of the top bar on the frame is 25 mm;
• between the axes of adjacent frames there should be 37.5 mm;
• the width of streets or passages for bees is 12.5 mm;
• between the side slats of the frames and the walls of the hive no more than 7.5 mm;
• from the top of the frame to the lower body and from the lower bar to the upper body there should be no less than 8 and no more than 10 mm;
• the distance from the bottom bar of the frame to the bottom of the hive body is within 20-40 mm.

It is recommended to paint finished hives in different colors. This helps the bees better navigate and find their home faster.

These insects are especially good at distinguishing yellow, orange and blue shades, as well as white. The roof must be painted white to reduce its heating by the sun's rays. Before painting, the surface is treated with drying oil or primer.

When using thin walls for the winter, they are insulated with reed or straw mats. You can use other insulation materials, but this option with mats is the cheapest. Compliance with these conditions will ensure the normal development of the bee colony and simple maintenance of the hive.

Selection of materials

When making a hive, you can use various materials:

• Tree. A classic option for building a bee house. Helps create natural conditions for insects. It is best to choose a species of wood - cedar, although you can use linden or aspen, but the structure will have to be additionally insulated. Such hives are dry, breathe well and smell pleasant. You should avoid using pine, spruce and fir - such houses are warm, but moisture and resin accumulate in them, and they also have a pine aroma.
  

  To make a hive, you need to choose wooden boards whose humidity is kept within 15-16%.

• Plywood . It is a durable and environmentally friendly material, but its structure must be painted and insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam to maintain heat and dryness. Plywood is extremely sensitive to moisture, so it requires constant and proper care.
• Expanded polystyrene . A relatively new material in the manufacture of hives. It is attractive due to its low cost and lack of need for additional insulation in winter. Expanded polystyrene has its drawbacks - it is fragile and brittle. When using poor quality material, there is a possibility that the properties of honey will deteriorate.
• Styrofoam . One of the most economical and affordable options, as you can even use packaging from household appliances. The foam construction is lightweight even with the frames filled and has excellent thermal insulation, but is very fragile and requires constant painting to protect it from sunlight.
• Polyurethane . It has good thermal insulation and does not allow moisture to pass through, so fungi and bacteria do not develop inside the hive. This material is practically not chewed by bees, mice and birds, but it has its drawbacks - it is highly flammable and practically does not allow air to pass through.

A hive made of any material should be painted white, as it is better remembered by insects and repels the sun's rays.

DIY “horned” hive

One of the simplest and, at the same time, effective designs for making beehives with your own hands is the “horned” hive. This model got its name due to the presence of connecting pins protruding from the corners of the body. It was invented by Mikhail Polivoda, who decided to develop a multi-tiered sectional hive that was as easy to manufacture as possible.

Each individual section consists of 4 boards, 155 wide and 22 mm thick, knocked together in a frame. To connect the sections to each other, 22x27 mm bars are fixed in the corner parts of the body, protruding 22 mm in the upper part and not reaching the edge by 17 mm in the lower part.

When the housings are installed on top of each other, these bars connect them, creating a strong monolithic structure. The remaining gap between the bars is intended to allow disassembly using a chisel or other tool. The internal dimensions of the case are 450x300 mm.

The tightness of the joints between the connected bodies is ensured by the selection of end folds along the edges of the boards. In order to simplify the work, instead of folds inside the body, you can nail parallel bars on which the shoulders of the body frame will rest. In this case, the structure will become somewhat heavier, and the internal dimensions will be determined by the distance between these bars.

The quality of board processing is not critical. The main condition is the absence of strong roughness. The same can be said about the thickness of the board. It is important that only the internal dimensions are maintained.

The bottom is made of metal mesh with a 3x3 or 4x4 mm cell, stretched over a frame body made of boards 100 mm wide. On one of the narrow sides there is a wide taphole with a height of 22 mm. A lid with a continuous layer of boards is used as a ceiling.

In winter, for insulation, it is covered with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam glued to a sheet of tin. After manufacturing, all sections must be primed and painted with colored paints.

The working capacity of such a “horned” hive is designed for the installation of 8 Dadan or magazine frames. The structure, assembled from several sections, is installed on a wooden platform slightly raised above the ground. The wall thickness of 25 mm provides additional insulation in the winter season.

Advantages of a “horned” hive

Most beekeepers admit that Mikhail Polivoda developed a very simple and successful design, noting that:

• making a beehive has become easier;
• any dry wood can be used as a material;
• Even wood waste can be used as bars;
• production does not require complex tools;
• the weight of the case is light, which makes it possible to move it to a new location without much difficulty;
• you can use store-bought frames or make them yourself;
• the design is inexpensive and accessible even to novice beekeepers.

As a result, the solution is practical and very comfortable to use.

Instructions for making and assembling a classic hive

Thanks to its simple and understandable design, the Dadanovsky hive was considered a classic option until recently. Its design consists of:

• several housings for installing frames;
• two stores;
• bottom;
• ceiling;
• liner;
• roofs;
• insert board;
• 10 or 12 frames.

Mandatory additional accessories included in the kit include a feeder, a drinking bowl and entrance barriers in the form of conical wooden plugs.

Before you make a hive with your own hands, you need to select and purchase the necessary materials, for which you can use dry linden, aspen, pine or spruce boards 30-40 mm thick, and for the lid and roof liner - 15 mm thick. The surface of the boards must be carefully processed on at least one side and at the ends. No more than 3 knots are allowed in any wooden part.

Constructing a pollen trap with your own hands

The material you can use is polystyrene foam, foam grade no lower than 40, or polyurethane. To assemble the structure, you need PVA glue or other waterproof glue with a strength of at least 20 kg/cm 2, as well as nails with a length of 10, 40 and 60 mm. The roof is covered with a layer of roofing material or other waterproofing material. At the final stage you will need drying oil, paints and brushes.

Manufacturing of the body and magazine

For the manufacture of cases and magazines, existing boards are cut into lengths of 530 and 340 mm. Along the long ends of the boards, tongues and ridges with a width of 15 mm are selected. Shields are assembled from the prepared sections using a tongue-and-groove adhesive joint. To create the possibility of hanging frames, a fold of 11 mm wide and 20 mm deep is selected in the front and rear walls.

Along the inner edge of the side walls, it is necessary to remove a fold 16 mm wide and 10 mm deep, and along the outer side, remove a chamfer of 5x5 mm. Thanks to the presence of this fold, the magazine will be installed on the body, and the chamfer will ensure reliable removal of moisture from the walls during rain.

A fold of 24 mm wide and 10 mm high is made along the lower edge of the body and magazine. The dimensions of the shield for the side wall are 490x340 mm. In corner joints they fit into the folds of the front and rear walls.

Making a roof

The roof structure consists of a roof and a retaining frame. The roof is assembled from boards 10-15 mm thick or plywood 8-10 mm thick is used. For waterproofing, it is covered with two layers of roofing felt or waterproofing material. It is even better to use sheet aluminum or galvanized iron.

To hold the roof in a fixed position, 20x20 mm wooden slats are nailed along the perimeter of the frame. It is necessary to drill ventilation holes in the end walls and cover them with a metal mesh with a 3x3 mm mesh.

Bottom assembly

The bottom of Dadanovsky hives is detachable. The shield is assembled from boards 40 mm thick with glue into a 10x20 mm tongue and groove. The outer strapping is made from a wooden block when connected into a tenon. A fold is selected along the top edge to allow installation of a magazine. The dimensions of the bottom must correspond to the dimensions of the body.

Bee hive: classification

For more than two centuries, beekeepers have used frames to extract honey from the bee's home. It was this invention that made a huge leap in the improvement of artificial bee dwellings and today remains the most convenient form for servicing hives. Over the past 1.5 hundred years, changes have concerned only the size and number of buildings.

The classification of beehives for bees provides for division according to the following criteria:

• By design: non-demountable and collapsible. The second type is increasingly gaining popularity because it is more convenient to use: you can replace parts, not the entire hive; expand or reduce the nest; when transporting empty structures, they take up minimal space;
• Direction: vertical and horizontal. Horizontal structures are more bulky, but are easy to maintain. When building vertically, buildings or shops are placed one on top of the other, which allows increasing the living space for the family, and takes up a minimum of space on the site;
• By functional purpose: in addition to the usual maintenance of the family, the bee house can be intended for the wintering of queens or scientific research into the behavior of bees.

Depending on the design, purpose and direction of expansion of the nest, several types of modern hives are distinguished.

Dadanovsky

This design is the most common in the middle zone because it is simple in design and spacious. Most often, the body is made of spruce boards. Main components of the structure:

• Case for 12 frames (size 435 by 300 mm);
• Several magazines (half frame size);
• Roof and roof liner.

The bottom of such a hive is not removable, but the presence of several stores allows beekeeping to be carried out with the least amount of anxiety for the bees.

A peculiarity when servicing hives of this type is that when the bribe increases, the bees may not have enough space to store honey, so the beekeeper must carefully monitor the loading of the honeycombs and set up a store at the right time.

If the queen is young and active, in such a hive, if the installation of the store is delayed, too many young individuals may appear, as a result of which the colony comes into a swarming state. In this case, it is better to set up the store in advance - excess space, especially in the summer, cannot cause such harm to the family as a too cramped hive.

Important! Working with store extensions is very convenient in an amateur apiary and is completely ineffective on an industrial scale. Therefore, despite its popularity, such a hive is gradually being replaced by more productive multi-hull structures.

Hive rue

The main feature of this type of hive is the increase in size due to the same size bodies in the vertical direction. The frame dimensions are 226 by 232 mm, although they can increase or decrease with changes to the case.

The basic principle of working with a rue hive is the interchangeability of the bodies, as a result of which the bees are constantly stimulated to collect honey. This happens due to the physiological need of insects to fill empty honeycombs from top to bottom. When the beekeeper places frames with unfilled combs between the full body and the nest, the bees immediately detect this and begin to work hard.

The effectiveness of this design is recognized all over the world, but it is most suitable for beekeepers with experience, since it requires constant monitoring and rearrangement of the housings.

Important! The rue hive has a number of advantages:

• Increasing the amount of commercial honey, strengthening families (they always have room for development);
• Reduced time for inspections (only work with cases is required);
• All frames are the same size (working with them is simplified).

When using hives of this type, novice beekeepers should pay special attention to the temperature conditions during inspection. If the weather is cool, then they should pass quickly so as not to catch the brood. That is why such designs are more suitable for regions with warm climates.

Alpine

The name of this design corresponds to its main principle - creating conditions as close as possible to natural ones:

• Small square bodies (inside length 30 cm) with a height of 21.5 cm (for brood - 10.5 cm), each with 8 frames, lined up one above the other;
• There is an entrance only in the lower building, so the hive does not need additional heating;
• There are no ventilation holes or dividing grille, and excess moisture condenses on the top-mounted feeder;
• It also acts as an air cushion, which, together with the insulating cover, provides a high degree of protection from temperature fluctuations;
• The height of the hive with a good bribe can reach 1.5 m;
• The frame for an Alpine hive consists of a top bar and a wire attached to it in the form of a quadrangle - there are no side or bottom bars.

When developing the design, the Frenchman Roger Delon proceeded primarily from the principle of creating maximum convenience for the bee colony. And he succeeded to the fullest. In Alpine hives, bees show no less efficiency (and in bad years - much more) than in the same Dadanov hives. In addition, the compact size and ease of maintenance allow one beekeeper to maintain a large number of such structures in a minimal area of ​​land.

Cassette hive

Sooner or later, many beekeepers have a question about increasing the efficiency of their apiary. And, as you know, a good bribe can only happen if there are honey plants. And here, with the development of technology, the question arose of transporting the apiary to the places of greatest honey collection.

From loading and unloading hives into a vehicle, beekeepers quickly moved on to constructing a stationary platform on wheels that holds many hives. This is how another type of bee houses appeared - cassette hives.

This design can be used not only for mobile, but also stationary apiaries, saving space and effectively combating varroa. After all, inspecting each bee colony does not present any difficulties - you just need to pull out a certain cassette and carry out an inspection.

In addition, cassette content has a number of advantages:

• There is no need for special organization of the winter hut. And the compact arrangement creates optimally comfortable conditions when additional insulation is needed;
• Special waxing and lack of coloring are extremely favorable factors for the health of the family and the production of high-quality honey;
• With a mobile version of the design, one family has the opportunity to prepare a variety of varieties of honey, which is a positive factor when creating winter reserves, and also affects the quality of honey;
• Thanks to the sanitary ventilation holes in the bottom and walls, constant gas and air exchange occurs, which helps the family maintain the required temperature and humidity conditions;
• The compact arrangement in the cassette pavilion allows you to perform all the necessary work in comfortable conditions and in all weather conditions.

Important! With all their advantages, cassette houses also have their disadvantages: the need for regular inspections of the condition of external walls, an increased threat of rodents, increased control of humidity levels. However, if you have at least a little experience and follow the rules of beekeeping, cassette keeping can justify itself many times over. Therefore, many beekeepers are enthusiastically mastering the new design.

Beehive lounger

The name itself already explains the structure of the bee’s home - the nest expands not in height, but in width. Accordingly, the hive itself consists of one body, but a wide one. Such houses are made with 16, 18, 20, as well as 24 or 27 frames. However, the most common designs are those with 20 or 24 frames.

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The main advantages of a hive-lounger are:

• Easy to maintain. To form a nest or layer, select honey or install additional frames, the beekeeper does not need to rearrange heavy buildings;
• Space for development. Bees in such a house always have the opportunity to start building new honeycombs for their own purposes; the beekeeper just needs to set the frames;
• Convenient if you need to separate the nest. It is enough to install a transverse diaphragm - and if there is a threat of swarming, you will get two nests. You can also make layering or place two weak families for the winter;
• Ease of cleaning. To carry out cleaning, the empty part of the hive is first removed, then frames with bees are moved there and debris is removed from the space under the frame. In some hives, cleaning is done through a hole in the lower part of the front wall. However, this method is suitable if there is enough space under the frames.

Important! The main disadvantages of the design are its bulkiness and, as a result, the need for a large area even for a small apiary. In addition, not the best air exchange conditions and horizontal expansion of nests can create certain difficulties. Despite this, the hive-lounger is the best choice for novice beekeepers.

Universal sizes

Whatever project you take as a basis, it is important to observe the basic dimensions of the parts and the distances between them. For bee houses with low-wide frames, it is important to maintain the distance between the back and front sides. It should be exactly 45 cm.

The universal sizes for all types of hives are:

1. With a honeycomb thickness of 2.5 cm, the street is 1.25 cm.
2. The passage between the frames and the walls of the hive (front and back) is 0.75 cm.
3. Leave 2 cm between the bottom and the bottom bar of the nest.
4. Between the middle walls of frames adjacent to each other you need to make a distance of 3.75 cm.

A good hive, built with your own hands, will delight the beekeeper and serve as a reliable refuge for bees for 10 years. In regions with low humidity and good weather conditions, this period can be 20 years. When building, turn to trusted sources, look at the apiary of an experienced beekeeper, use his personal opinion. These tips will help you achieve good results.

Hives "Dadan-Blatt"

History has revealed attempts to keep honey insects since the middle of the last millennium. Decks were used.

In the 19th century, professionals began to think about creating devices for transportation and versatility. An emigrant from France, Dadan came to the conclusion that the most rational would be a 10-frame hive for bees with dimensions (hereinafter in all drawings everything is given in mm) 450x450.

He did not have enough remaining years of his life to complete his research. What was started was continued by another American, originally from Switzerland, Blatt. He patented the brainchild, nobly mentioning his predecessor. Officially, their first-born was given the name Dadan-Blatta.

In principle, the classic twelve-frame standard with a frame of 300x450 mm is generally accepted. However, these also include 8- and 10-frame beehives.

Some beekeepers prefer weanable bottoms. They are easier to change and clean.

Drawing, photo:

It is important to note that detachable bottoms for bee hives require special care: precision manufacturing of the component parts (to avoid blowing and moisture penetration).

Others prefer tightly nailed bottoms. Some people like single-case ones with 2-3 magazine extensions. Such hives with finding bees are subject to a man with average static physical indicators. Convenient to lift and rearrange.

Store-bought half-frames are filled with solid honey, without bee brood. Therefore, time wastage is greatly reduced.

A large audience of beekeepers like double-hulled hives for bees. The beauty is that you can “charge” them in advance.

They are swapped, forcing the bees to collect nectar more actively. As you understand, remarkable male strength is welcomed here. Not everyone can handle such heavy lifting. You can't do it without an assistant.

It’s nice that they are content with the only pitching at the end of the season. Not very suitable for wandering. But with proper care, it is great for wintering in the wild and in the open air.

They are suitable for industrial plants. This is facilitated by the high frame. There is enough food for a long time.

Drawings of Dadan's hive

Since the Dadanovsky hive and the lounger use standard frames, they differ only in width: one should fit 12 pieces of frames, the other - 20 or 24 pieces. The rest of the parameters remain the same.

Side and front (back and front) walls of the hive

Housing assembly diagram

Changeable parameters for hives with different numbers of frames are shown in the table. Substitute them into the drawing and get the option that you need.

What you need to know before you start making a hive with your own hands

Even before you start making hives yourself, you need to know the requirements for materials and technology for constructing bee hives. A lot of them. Let's start with the material requirements.

What are they made from?

The most common material is wood. Both non-resinous coniferous wood (spruce, fir, deresined pine) and loose hardwood - poplar, linden, etc. can be used. You should not use dense wood - the hive will be heavy and cold.

The requirements for wood are strict. It should be dry - no more than 16% humidity, without falling knots, rot, wormholes, or redness. Blue discoloration is acceptable (it does not affect quality indicators). If there are knots, they can be removed, sealed with plugs of the same type of wood and puttied. Do not use wood with other defects.

Today they make hives from plywood, preferably birch. In this case, the walls are made double with a gasket between layers of insulation - foam plastic. Such hives are warm in winter and cool in summer. Their disadvantage is that the walls are vapor-tight and moisture does not escape through them. Therefore, special attention must be paid to the hive ventilation system (make an additional entrance at the top, and, if necessary, open it for ventilation).

Sometimes hives are assembled from polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam. The best option is polystyrene foam. You can even install some kind of fasteners in it; neither bees nor other insects can gnaw it. The remaining two materials are collected using glue, and bees also grind them down, and ants and other neighbors undesirable for bees can settle in.

Processing and Assembly Requirements

When assembling a hive with your own hands, you must strictly maintain the internal dimensions of the body and extensions. Then increasing volumes will not cause difficulties. Parts of the hive - bodies, extensions, magazines, roof - must be connected into a lock and the lock parts must also match. This is necessary for a reliable connection without cracks and drafts, which bees really don’t like. In this regard, the maximum processing tolerances are 1-2 mm.

There are also requirements for the quality of processing of materials. Most of them relate to wood, but they can also be applied to other materials:

• Boards and bars must be smooth, without burrs, burrs or chips.
• It is necessary to cut materials strictly at an angle of 90°, without allowing deviations.
• The hive bodies must be knocked down from solid boards 40-45 mm thick or using a tongue-and-groove joint, glued for reliability.
• To pair the parts of the hive, a quarter is chosen in the parts - for a reliable gapless connection.
• Rebates are made on the front and back walls of the hive for hanging frames. The depth of the fold should be such that there is a distance of at least 8-10 mm from the top edge of the plank to the cover or extension. If the distance is smaller, the frames may stick to the cover, which creates maintenance problems.
• If the walls are made of two layers (if the boards are not thick enough), the outer ones are connected in quarters, making sure that the seams in the layers do not coincide. It is better to connect the internal parts and the bottom into a tongue or groove.

Structural elements and their features

Most often, the hive has a modular structure - it consists of several detachable parts. This is convenient as it allows you to increase the volume as needed. Each of these parts is manufactured separately and the manufacturing precision must be high - all parts must be interchangeable.

Dadanovsky hive of two buildings placed one on top of the other

Methods of using the Nicot system design when hatching queens

Frame

This is the central part of the hive, which usually houses the bees' nest. Depending on the number of bodies, hives can be single-body, double-body or multi-body (3 or more). The corps are mentored as the family grows.

Hive body for 12 frames

Roof

The roof of the hive can be single-pitched (sloping backwards) or gable. In any case, it should have overhangs - protrude beyond the geometric dimensions of the hive and protect the walls from exposure to bad weather.

Roof structures for hives

The roof consists of a roof liner - a flat body for placing insulation or feeders for feeding bees - and the roof planks themselves, nailed to the roof liner or screwed with self-tapping screws. The height of the underframe depends on the thickness of the insulation, and this value depends on the region. Typically the height of the roof liner is 80-140 mm. Ventilation holes are often also made in the roof liner to remove moist air from the hive.

When making a roof, the boards are laid either in two layers with the seams overlapping, or from thicker boards in one layer, but the seams are necessarily covered with thin planks. Roofing iron, roofing felt or roofing felt can be laid on top of the wooden roof of the hive.

When making the roof, make sure that it fits tightly, without gaps. To seal the joint around the perimeter of the body, you can stuff a felt strip or nail a plinth to the outside of the body to cover the joint.

The bottom of the hive can be nailed to the body (solid) or can be pulled out or pulled out, i.e. be detachable. The removable bottom makes hive maintenance easier - it allows you to clean the bottom without disassembling the entire hive. Structurally, the bottom can be:

• cold - from a single board;
• warm - made of two layers with insulating backfill.

The bottom can also be double-sided - with protrusions of different heights on both sides, which allows you to adjust the internal volume. Knock it down tightly, without gaps, connect the boards into a quarter or into a groove with additional gluing of the joint with moisture-resistant wood glue. The cracks must be carefully sealed (with wood putty), as wax crumbs are poured into them, and then wax moths appear. Therefore, from time to time they prefer to replace the bottom by knocking together a new one.

Useful videos

Painting

Painting wooden structures not only gives a neat and elegant look, but also protects the bees’ home from environmental influences.

When painting them, it is worth considering some features:

• Thick oil paint prevents the natural evaporation of moisture, which shortens the life of the hives and worsens the wintering conditions of bees. For this reason, it is advisable to use organic oil solutions;
• Paint application should be carried out only on dry and warm days, and also to avoid sudden temperature changes;
• The part of the nest to be painted must be thoroughly dried and cleaned of dust and all kinds of dirt;
• It is also worth considering the vital activity of bees. After all, if you apply paint while moving them, they can stick to the coloring composition.

Despite the fact that beekeeping has been widespread in our country for a long time, it still remains one of the most popular occupations of the population.

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Beekeeping is a very important branch of agriculture. We can only hope that the number of bee colonies will increase every year.

20 frame horizontal hive

The operating principle is the same for all types. Before you make a bee hive with your own hands, you need to know the exact dimensions. 20-frame horizontal beehive for bees, step-by-step instructions:

1. We cut parts from a board four cm wide. These parts will serve as the front and back walls of the hive. Side ones, cut from a board three cm long.
2. We assemble the structure so that all the walls except the front are in contact with the bottom, and the front rises one and a half cm from the bottom. This distance will in the future serve as a taphole from below. The corners are butted into quarters and secured with nails.
3. We make the floor from a board 3.5 cm thick. The bottom should look like a shield.
4. The ceilings are built from boards: L-47.8 cm, thickness - 1 cm.
5. We construct the roof. It can be made flat, pitched or gable. This is the only part that can be upholstered with metal sheet.
6. For northern regions, the lounger must be insulated on both sides.

The lounger consists of a bottom, a roof and walls. The frame is built from panels. Dimensions of the front part: 87x37. The height of the back wall is 87x34. The length of the side shields is 44x49 cm. Bottom size: 84x54.5, thickness 3.5 cm. You can make bee evidence with your own hands from:

The ease of construction with your own hands lies in the fact that polystyrene foam is inexpensive and reliable. Building from this material is simple and profitable. Before you build a bee hive with your own hands, you need to know the dimensions. The size of future hives can be very diverse, it depends on the number of frames that will be there. To find out the width, you need to multiply the number of frames by 3.75. Length is calculated: frame length plus 1.4. The height is calculated: add the height of the frame to the height of the folds.

1. Initially, you should decide on the size and begin construction in stages.
2. We apply stencils of the future house onto a sheet of foam plastic.
3. We cut out the future walls and clean the corners with sandpaper.
4. To fasten all the parts, we cut out quarters and use nails and screws for connections.
5. The bottom is made of galvanized sheet metal.
6. The roof must be flat or pitched. After the roof is fastened, it is weighted down.
7. The entrances are standard.

After completing the construction of the hive, it is necessary to make frames. They consist of: upper, lower and side bars. Made from dried, natural material. Dimensions according to GOST:

• top and sides – B-2.5 cm
• top rail – H-2 cm;
• bottom rail – B - from 1.5 to 2.5 cm;
• H – 1 cm;
• Dimensions depend on the type of hive; dimensions according to GOST are 43.5x30. (H-height; B-width; L-length)

Frame

The central part of the hive is a four-walled box. It contains a bee's nest. As the bee colony grows, the bodies can be stacked on top of each other. Based on the number of buildings, houses are divided into: single, double-building and multi-building (3 or more). The wall thickness should be 35 mm. This size will help the swarm to survive the winter well. The number of frames in the case can be from 16 to 24.

The parts prepared for the body are connected with nails or PVA glue. A cut is made in the lower part of the front wall: B-4cm, H-1cm. This slot will serve as the entrance and exit for the swarm. Also, at the bottom of the case, a hole is drilled for ventilation. The finished body is treated on the outside with a water-repellent material and painted white.

Important! It is necessary to make recesses on the sides of the case, 7mm below the top of the case. They will serve as handles for convenient transportation from place to place.

Roof

The roof is made from boards 2 cm thick. From the prepared boards we make a structure in the form of a shield and, to prevent the board from rotting, we cover it with a tin sheet.

Important! When building a hive, tin sheets are used only to cover the roof; they are not used to cover the walls.

Most beekeepers install a mesh on the top of the hive for additional ventilation when transporting bee houses. It is also necessary to isolate the swarm from the outside world.

For regions with cold climates, the bottom is made of two layers of boards with insulating backfill. In the southern regions, insulation is not required, therefore, it is made from a single board.

The bottom is made of bars. The three side bars have standard dimensions - 57x6.5x3.5. The bars that will be installed in the rear are 44.5x6.5x3.5. In each block, at a distance of 2 cm from the top edge, it is necessary to make puzzles. After all the parts are cut out, we begin assembling the parts of the structure. The bottom should be assembled with the letter “P”. Grooves are necessary for installing the floor. The landing board is made from a protruding beam of 5 cm, the front beam of the bottom. The bottom, for convenience, should be removable and double-sided.

Sample Toolkit

Before you start making a hive, you need to prepare the following tools:

• wooden hammer;
• awl;
• wire;
• pliers;
• nails and screws;
• measuring tape;
• hammer drill, welding machine and grinder;
• board 32x18, 12 mm plywood;
• insulation;
• a metal sheet;
• PVA, paint, brushes.

Blueprints

It is more convenient to use ready-made drawings.

Due to the large number of frames and bodies, it will be difficult for a novice beekeeper to make a multi-body hive.

This type of hive is a large, long box. The floor and roof fit tightly to the structure itself. Drawings of the manufactured structure:

We make hives for bees

Making your own bee hives is very popular for several reasons. Firstly, self-production from scrap materials allows you to save money on buying ready-made houses.

Secondly, the beekeeper can independently develop and create a structure that will harmoniously fit into the landscape of the site and provide easy care for the families.

It should be borne in mind that the bee colony has a strict organization, which should be taken into account when building a house. For example, young individuals deliver food for the larvae, and middle-aged insects clean the hive. Old bees are engaged in the construction of honeycombs, since it is in such individuals that the wax glands work more actively.

Old individuals are responsible for guarding and ventilating the hive, and long-livers are responsible for collecting honey. Also, in any bee colony there are drones. They live only one season, as their main goal is to fertilize the queen.

Peculiarities

To begin production, you need to understand the design of houses in order to correctly make their parts.

The main components include (Figure 1):

• Housing - can be single or double, depending on the number of individuals and the method of their maintenance. Special grooves are made in the body for attaching frames, and entrances so that insects can get inside the house.
• The bottom can be removable or stationary. Models with a removable bottom are considered more convenient, since this will make it easier for the beekeeper to clean the nest.
• The roof is the upper part of the structure. Most often it is made of wood or plywood and covered with existing roofing material.
• Frames are the most important component of any home, but their design depends on the type of house.

Figure 1. The main components of the hive body
Having understood the main parts that make up the houses, you can begin to produce a hive with your own hands according to ready-made drawings.

Rules

To make the home comfortable for bees, the hive must be made according to certain rules.

If you are interested in how to build a bee hive with your own hands, we recommend using these tips:

• The material must be durable in order to reliably protect the family from moisture and bad weather;
• The design must provide additional space for installing insulation. In winter, it will help maintain optimal temperature inside the house, and in summer it will provide a comfortable microclimate even in the hottest weather.
• It is better to make several entrances so that their number can be increased or decreased depending on weather conditions.
• The house should be spacious enough so that insects can freely place brood and honey inside it.

In addition, we should not forget about the convenience of the beekeeper himself. To make caring for insects simple and enjoyable, it is better to use durable but lightweight wood, and also make a removable bottom or an opening roof so that you can quickly clean the inside of the house.

Materials for production

Despite the wide variety of building materials, houses are best made from natural wood. This is a fairly durable and environmentally friendly material that bees really like (Figure 2).

Note: Do not forget that in natural conditions insects often live inside tree trunks, so boards are the best material for making houses for insects.

It is advisable to choose well-dried boards without nicks or signs of rot. For this purpose, it is best to choose raw materials from linden, willow, spruce, poplar or fir. They should be even, and their width should be 5 mm greater than the expected width of the wall.

Figure 2. Types of materials for hives

Modern manufacturers also make models from plywood, polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam. Despite the fact that most of these materials are durable, light and long-lasting, natural wood consistently occupies a leading position.

How to make a beehive yourself: video

If you want to make beehives with your own hands according to ready-made drawings, we recommend that you watch the video, which shows in detail the process of production and assembly of such a house.

Types of hives

Making hives with your own hands is not a difficult task. Before you begin, you need to understand that evidence differs in size, design and material. By design, the hive is divided into:

Today, non-dismountable hives have become less popular. Most beekeepers use homemade frame bee evidence. Frame houses are divided into:

Horizontal or lounger, is a single-hull structure with possible expansion in different directions. Due to their ease of use, these clues are suitable for inexperienced beekeepers. There is one drawback - they are large and heavy. The vertical structure consists of several buildings. Plus - lightweight and easy to move. These two forms have more than one section and are separated by a partition, which allows you to change the volume in different directions.